Author’s Note: This is a series of selected highlights from two years (1986-88) of budget backpacker travel through 15 countries and a half-dozen US States – hosted all along the way by national and local YMCAs – from the Pacific Islands to selected Asian countries including: Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Burma, The Philippines, Hong Kong, Macau, China, Taiwan, Korea, Japan – and the USA.

Exploring the mountains around Tienhisiang town within Taroko National Park, one of nine national parks named for Taroko Gorge, an impressive 19-km-long canyon carved by the Liwu River near Taiwan’s east coast. The name Taroko, means the “magnificent and splendid” in the language of Truku, the aboriginal tribe who resides in the area, which is also well known for its abundant supply of marble leading to its nickname: The Marble Gorge.

After a splendid couple of days wandering and hiking among the amazing gorges, lush, green hillsides, hot springs and across suspension bridges in this particularly scenic are, I returned to the capital Taipei to learn about the YMCA’s range of social and physical education programs, vocational training, language courses, youth camping, child care and kindergarten.

The Taipei YMCA also runs a hotel and restaurant, and participates in staff and student exchange programs with YMCAs in other countries, such as the International Camp Counselor Program and the Overseas Service Corps of the YMCA (OSCY), for teaching and learning English as a second language.

The OSCY English language program (in cooperation with Japan and the USA YMCAs) was of particular interest to me personally. So deeply taken by the overwhelming charm of the people and the place, I could easily consider a longer commitment in Taiwan (or Japan) to teach English. But for now, it was time to continue on to Korea.

I often wondered at the serendipity of life – the chance meetings of other travelers at a particular place or point in time, and how it would all have been different had we each taken a different bus or train, at a different time, or had traveled a day earlier or later. Somehow, I was meeting the most extraordinary people all along the way – and many would become lifelong friends. One of the benefits of traveling alone is this added opportunity to meet new friends.

And it was happening again as I boarded the packed bus in Korea’s capital, Seoul. Dropping into the last available seat as the bus pulled away from the station, I turned to see a beautiful young Korean woman seated next to me. Mi Sook spoke fairly good English and was also traveling alone. We chatted a bit and soon learned we were headed to the same destination – Cheju Island, a short ferry ride from the southern coast of South Korea.

Cheju Do, as it is locally known, is a popular holiday spot among locals, and has some of the only swimmable beaches in the country. It is also popular with couples and newlyweds. Large rock statues or Dol Hareubang found throughout the island have come to be known as the symbol of Cheju Do, and are considered to be gods offering both protection and fertility, but this interpretation may have more to do with Cheju Do’s present-day status as a “honeymoon island” than with tradition.

Mi Sook and her mother ran a beautician shop in Seoul, and she was taking this trip to get away from the city for a short holiday. I was on my way to visit the YMCA International Youth Center on the island – a neat, modern building that had been donated by the Japanese YMCAs. I had been treated to impeccable hospitality at the YMCA in Seoul and at other YMCAs throughout the country, and this warm welcome continued at the Youth Center – staying in first class accommodation with meals as guest of the YMCA. My hosts spoke no English, and my Korean was basically zip.

Still, my YMCA hosts were undaunted, taking me around the island, Mr Kim (it seemed like everyone’s name in Korea was either “Kim”, “Lee” or “Park”) and I joined the multitudes climbing the island’s impressive volcano “Hala-san” – where we literally had to queue up on the trail, but enjoyed the wonderfully cool, bracing air and great views. The change in scenery and climate in this temperate setting was a welcome relief from the heat of the tropics – both refreshing and invigorating.

Stay tuned for Part Two – coming soon!

You can read more about Jim’s backstory,  here and here.